Dragonfly brooch
ca. 1890
Medium
Gold, diamond, enamel
Dimensions
5/8 × 4 5/8 × 2 9/16 in. (1.6 × 11.7 × 6.5 cm)
Classification
Jewelry|Metalwork-Gold and Platinum
Culture
French
Department
European Sculpture and Decorative Arts
Museum
Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, NY
Credit
Gift of Albion Art Co. Ltd., 2018
Accession Number
2018.447.1
Rights
Public Domain
Tags
Art Historical Context
Adorned with the iridescent grace of a dragonfly in flight, this exquisite brooch was crafted around 1890 by the French jewelry house Boucheron in association with Edgar Bense. a petite 5/8 × 4 5/8 × 2 9/16 inches (1.6 × 11.7 × 6.5 cm), it gleams in gold, accented by sparkling diamonds and colorful enamel. Housed in the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Department of European Sculpture and Decor Arts—thanks to a 2018 gift from Albion Art Co. Ltd.—this piece exemplifies the opulent metalwork and jewelry traditions of late 19th-century France. At the cusp of the Art Nouveau era, Boucheron was renowned for pushing the boundaries of jewelry design, blending naturalistic motifs with technical virtuosity. The dragonfly, a favored symbol of transformation and ephemeral beauty in European decorative arts, is rendered here with meticulous detail: gold forms the body and intricate wings, while enamel provides translucent, jewel-like hues, and diamonds add facets of light. Techniques like champlevé or plique-à-jour enameling—common in French high jewelry—allowed for vivid, lightweight effects that mimicked nature's delicacy. This brooch not only showcases the cultural prestige of Parisian maisons like Boucheron, patronized by royalty and elites, but also highlights jewelry's evolution from mere adornment to sculptural art. A wearable masterpiece, it invites visitors to appreciate the fusion of craftsmanship, nature, and luxury in fin-de-siècle Europe.
About the Artist
Boucheron|Edgar Bense (French| ) · 1858 | –9999 |
French, founded 1858|