Ensemble

Art Historical Context

Step into the opulent world of 1880s American fashion *Ensemble* by Franziska Noll, circa 1885. This exquisite garment from the Costume Institute showcases the era's dramatic silhouettes, characterized by the exaggerated bustle that accentuated the female form, reflecting the Gilded Age's emphasis on elegance and social display. As an American piece, it highlights the growing sophistication of U.S. couture, influenced by European trends yet adapted for a burgeoning domestic luxury market. Crafted from luxurious silk, the ensemble incorporates innovative celluloid—a pioneering plastic invented in the 1860s that mimicked costly materials like ivory—alongside jet (a glossy black gemstone popular for mourning jewelry) and delicate feathers. These materials not only demonstrate advanced textile techniques but also nod to Victorian mourning customs and naturalistic embellishments, blending mourning elegance with playful ornamentation. Celluloid's use marks an early triumph of synthetic innovation, making high fashion more accessible. Housed in The Metropolitan Museum of Art's Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection, this gifted treasure offers a tactile glimpse into late 19th-century life, where clothing was both personal statement and cultural artifact. Visitors will appreciate how Gross's design captures the tension between tradition and modernity in American style.

About the Artist

Franziska Noll Gross · 1831–1906

Franziska Noll Gross (1831–1906), a German-born American dressmaker, emerged as a skilled practitioner of late 19th-century fashion design in New York City. Little is known about her early life or training, which remains sparsely documented, though she established her atelier at 136 East 19th Street by the late 1880s. Immigrating from Germany, she adapted to the vibrant American fashion scene, cat...