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Orphrey and two panels

Unknown Artist

15th–16th century

Orphrey and two panels by Unknown Artist

Medium

Silk and linen

Dimensions

L. 44 x W. 9 inches (111.8 x 22.9 cm)

Classification

Textiles-Woven

Culture

Italian, possibly Florence

Department

European Sculpture and Decorative Arts

Museum

Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, NY

Credit

Gift of Mrs. Van Santvoord Merle-Smith, 1933

Accession Number

33.39.8b

Rights

Public Domain

Art Historical Context

This exquisite *Orphrey and two panels*, crafted in the 15th–16th centuries, hails from Italy—possibly the textile powerhouse of Florence. Woven from luxurious silk and linen, these narrow strips (44 x 9 inches) once adorned ecclesiastical vestments, such as chasubles worn by clergy during Masses. An orphrey refers to the ornate vertical band on such garments, often featuring intricate motifs that symbolized religious devotion and status. The use of silk, prized for its sheen and durability, underscores the era's mastery of weaving techniques, blending fine threads into patterned bands fit for sacred rituals. In Renaissance Italy, textiles like these were more than fabric—they were canvases for artistic expression and displays of piety. Florence's silk industry flourished under guild patronage, producing opulent goods for churches and nobility. This piece, classified as woven textiles in the Met's European Sculpture and Decorative Arts collection, highlights the anonymous artisans' skill in creating luminous, tactile works that elevated liturgy. Gifted in 1933 by Mrs. Van Santvoord Merle-Smith, it invites us to appreciate the hidden splendor of medieval craftsmanship, where every thread wove faith into fashion.

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