Coverlet
Medium
Cotton and wool, plain weave double cloth; woven on loom with Jacquard attachment; two selvages present
Dimensions
244.9 × 178 cm (96 1/2 × 70 in.); Repeat: 33.2 × 29.5 cm (13 × 11 5/8 in.)
Classification
weaving - coverlet
Department
Textiles
Museum
Art Institute of Chicago
Accession Number
110064
Rights
Public Domain
Art Historical Context
This striking coverlet, woven in 1845 by Sarah Ann Riddell, exemplifies the artistry and technical skill of mid-nineteenth-century American textile production. Measuring nearly eight feet by six feet, it was created from cotton and wool in a double-cloth structure that produces reversible patterns and added warmth. The work was made on a loom fitted with a Jacquard attachment, an innovative mechanism that used punched cards to control the warp threads and generate intricate, repeating designs across the surface. The 13-by-11⅝-inch repeat visible throughout the cloth highlights the precision possible with this early form of programmable weaving technology. Two selvages confirm that the piece was woven to its full width without seaming, a practical feature for a functional bed covering. Such coverlets served both practical and decorative purposes in households of the period, blending everyday utility with the emerging possibilities of mechanized design. Riddell’s work stands as a testament to the vital role women played in the textile arts, preserving traditional weaving knowledge while embracing new industrial tools. Today it offers visitors a tangible connection to the intersection of craft, technology, and domestic life in 1840s America.