Flounce

Art Historical Context

Nestled in the Textiles department of the Art Institute Chicago, *Flounce* (1862) is a creation by the Soeurs de Nôtre de la Visitation, religious order renowned for their exquisite lacework. Crafted from cotton in the bobbin part lace technique, this elongated piece measures 26.5 × 154.5 cm, with a repeating motif every 28.3 cm wide. Flounces like this were prized decorative trims, often adorning the hems or ruffles of Victorian-era gowns, blending functionality with opulent detail. Bobbin lace, a labor-intensive craft dating back centuries, involves deftly twisting threads held on handheld bobbins to form intricate patterns. The Soeurs de Nôtre-Dame exemplified 19th-century convent traditions, where nuns preserved and refined these European techniques amid the Industrial Revolution's rise of machine-made alternatives. Their handmade cotton lace highlighted purity and precision, contrasting the era's mass production. This artwork captures mid-19th-century fashion's elegance, where such flounces symbolized refinement and status. Its generous length and repeatable design made it versatile for couture, offering visitors a tactile glimpse into the artistry of devotional craftsmanship that influenced both ecclesiastical vestments and high society attire.