Artheon MuseumArtheonMuseum

Fragment

Unknown

18th century, late Edo period (1789–1868)/ Meiji period (1868–1912)

Fragment by Unknown

Medium

Plain compound cloth, silk and gilt paper; 2 strips to m.m. (kara ori)

Dimensions

40.6 × 32.1 cm (16 × 12 5/8 in.)

Classification

textile

Department

Textiles

Museum

Art Institute of Chicago

Accession Number

156227

Rights

Public Domain

Art Historical Context

This exquisite textile fragment, hailing from Japan's late Edo period (178–1868) or Meiji era (1868–1912), showcases the masterful craftsmanship of anonymous artisans during a time of cultural transition. Measuring 40.6 × 32.1 cm, it is a plain compound cloth woven from silk threads and delicate gilt paper strips, structured in a "2 strips to m.m." typical of *kara ori*. This technique where thin metallic strips are precisely interlaced with silk, creates a shimmering, luxurious surface that catches the light beautifully—evoking the opulence of elite garments or Noh theater costumes. *Kara ori* weaving represents the pinnacle of Edo-period textile innovation, blending functionality with artistry. The use of gilt paper, a clever and cost-effective alternative to pure gold thread, allowed for radiant effects without excessive weight, making it ideal for flowing robes. As Japan modernized under Meiji rule, such fragments preserve glimpses of traditional methods amid rapid Western influences. Today, at the Art Institute of Chicago's Textiles Department, this piece invites us to appreciate the subtlety of Japanese design—where every thread tells a story of patience, skill, and cultural splendor. (198 words)

About the Artist

Unknown

The artist designated as "Unknown" in our virtual museum's collection exemplifies a poignant chapter in art history: creators whose identities have faded into obscurity despite the enduring power of their work. With only one known artwork attributed to them in our holdings, this figure represents countless anonymous hands that shaped visual culture across centuries. Museums worldwide, including th...

    Send Feedback

    We use this only to reply to your feedback.