Jacket
1855/65
Medium
Silk and mohair, Pusher machine lace with silk, warp frame machine border, and cotton, plain weave undersleeves edged with cotton crochet border; lined with silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave closures: silk wrapped cotton cordius + crochet cording
Dimensions
78.3 × 90.7 cm (30 7/8 × 35 3/4 in.); Sleeve: H.: 65.9 cm (26 in.)
Classification
textile
Department
Textiles
Museum
Art Institute of Chicago
Accession Number
15780
Rights
Public Domain
Art Historical Context
Step into the refined world of mid-19th-century fashion with this *Jacket* from 1855–65, a textile masterpiece from the Art Institute of's collection. Crafted during the Victorian era, when women's outerwear blended elegance with emerging industrial innovation, this garment measures 78.3 × 90.7 cm, featuring long sleeves (65.9 cm high) for the era's modest yet ornate silhouettes. The jacket showcases a harmonious mix of luxurious materials and cutting-edge techniques: silk and mohair for a shimmering texture, adorned with pusher machine lace and warp frame machine borders—early mechanized methods that democratized intricate lacework once reserved for handcraft. Undersleeves of cotton plain weave are edged with crochet borders, while the silk lining in warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave adds a smooth, opulent interior. Closures feature silk-wrapped cotton cording and crochet, highlighting the blend of hand-finishing and machine precision. This piece reflects the Industrial Revolution's transformative impact on textiles, making high fashion more accessible while preserving artisanal flair. Unknown in origin, it evokes the bustling world of 1860s urban life, where such jackets paired with crinolines for daywear or promenade, offering visitors a tactile glimpse into Victorian sartorial splendor.
About the Artist
Unknown
The artist designated as "Unknown" in our virtual museum's collection exemplifies a poignant chapter in art history: creators whose identities have faded into obscurity despite the enduring power of their work. With only one known artwork attributed to them in our holdings, this figure represents countless anonymous hands that shaped visual culture across centuries. Museums worldwide, including th...