Artheon MuseumArtheonMuseum

Pair of Lappets (Joined)

Unknown

1760s

Pair of Lappets (Joined) by Unknown

Medium

Linen, needle lace of a type known as "Point d'Argentan" with buttonholed mesh ground

Dimensions

136.2 × 9.3 cm (53 5/8 × 3 5/8 in.)

Classification

costume accessory

Department

Textiles

Museum

Art Institute of Chicago

Accession Number

111194

Rights

Public Domain

Art Historical Context

This exquisite pair of joined lappets, crafted in the 1760s, exemplifies the opulent lacework of 18th-century. Measuring over 53 inches long and 3.5 inches wide, these slender linen streamers were designed as costume accessories—likely dangling gracefully from a woman's elaborate headdress, such as a fontange or commode. Worn by the elite during the Rococo era, lappets added a touch of fluttering elegance to formal attire, signaling wealth and refined taste amid the lavish courts of France and beyond. Made using the prestigious "Point d'Argentan" needle lace technique from Normandy, these pieces feature a buttonholed mesh ground, where artisans meticulously buttonholed threads to create a durable, gossamer-like foundation. This labor-intensive method allowed for intricate, flowing patterns that mimicked the era's love of asymmetry and natural motifs, rivaling the finer Point d'Alençon lace. Each stitch reflects the skill of anonymous lacemakers, whose work could take months and was prized as a status symbol. Housed in the Art Institute of Chicago's Textiles Department, this rare survivor offers a glimpse into the artistry of fashion's unsung heroes. It reminds us how textiles like these bridged craftsmanship and culture, adorning the nobility while preserving techniques that influenced global lace traditions.

About the Artist

Unknown

The artist designated as "Unknown" in our virtual museum's collection exemplifies a poignant chapter in art history: creators whose identities have faded into obscurity despite the enduring power of their work. With only one known artwork attributed to them in our holdings, this figure represents countless anonymous hands that shaped visual culture across centuries. Museums worldwide, including th...

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